tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12671525969464460142024-02-19T01:49:14.136-08:00Amy & Matt's Buenos Aires AdventureMatthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16646227765513055592noreply@blogger.comBlogger29125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-51701551835656231282007-03-17T12:42:00.000-07:002007-03-18T16:25:14.738-07:00Buenos Aires in Conde Nast TravelerOkay, okay, THIS is the last post. :)<br /><br />But I had to mention that since my return, every time I turn around, I see an article in a major publication about how Buenos Aires is the place to be. Are they trying to rub it in? Here's another huge feature article about the city's revival from the February 2007 issue of <em>Conde Nast Traveler</em> magazine.<br /><br />"Buenos Aires in Bloom"<br /><a href="http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/articles/detail?articleId=10586">http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/articles/detail?articleId=10586</a><br /><br />The excerpt that perhaps best sums up the momentum you feel in BA:<br /><br /><strong>The city that used to promote itself as the Paris of South America, with its wide boulevards, café culture, and opera house to rival the Palais Garnier, has at last shed its stubborn European envy and become—first grimly and then exuberantly—a wholly different and distinct place, going from derivative to innovative almost overnight. But it took a tragedy—Argentina's devastating 2001 economic meltdown, one of the biggest financial collapses anywhere, ever—to shake this city of three million (fifteen million if you count the entire metropolitan area) out of its creative deep sleep and into its current fizzy era of entrepreneurship and invention. The Porteños (as Buenos Aires residents call themselves) I met on my most recent trip—leading designers, artists, gallery owners, chefs, and hoteliers—have unleashed an unprecedented amount of energy into their city, making for what must be the most colorful financial recovery in history, not to mention one of the world's most profound, and thrilling, makeovers.</strong><br /><strong></strong><br /><strong>Such energy is, it seems, contagious. For who isn't talking about Buenos Aires these days—its food, its galleries, its bars and boutiques? And there are other reasons too: Despite the city's size (it is divided into forty-eight barrios, and you can spend forty minutes in a cab just getting across town) and distance from the United States (an eleven-hour flight from the East Coast, but with a time difference of only an hour or two), it is both accessible and, still, affordable. There is also the irresistible feeling as you walk through here that you are witnessing that rarest of occasions—the very moment of transition, a city in its adolescence, transforming itself from what it was into something different and new, redrawing its boundaries and rethinking its identity, the public face it presents to the rest of the world.</strong>Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com73tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-31698942880781834542007-03-13T12:18:00.000-07:002007-03-13T17:41:52.415-07:00The Epilogue: PeruIt's not over....yet! I'm putting up one last post to show some photos from our five-day layover in Peru on the way back to LA.<br /><br />First, here's a shot taken from the beautiful clifftop <em>malecon </em>(promenade) in Lima's upscale Miraflores neighborhood, where our friend Matt Gehrke lives. (Matt Gehrke and Matt Prezzano met when they both were posted in Nicaragua with the Peace Corps.) His apartment is two blocks from the ocean, which means the city's countless surf breaks (many more than LA has) are just a quick walk away. Like LA, Lima's westward orientation make for very pretty sunsets, but the ocean temperature is much warmer. Note that the greenery you see here is not natural, by the way. Lima is located in the middle of a true desert (outside of town you see nothing but sand dunes), and only the irrigated areas have any greenery.<br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5041500783649014546" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiOkQ8C8zV980oQLwvF5fXoJiY1gKQjXJq-_rBBAuSpP79rF1bH3UxdKoJ5fMPdMM0VzoH2h-Kkzo6NYF0F37wrj-5MLDD5zeTgqx4f9h5OQBsa_6QSDJOiTKGDnhI5n2skIdVqnk-jyg/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+080.jpg" border="0" /></p><p>Lima was a very interesting contrast to Buenos Aires in many other ways too, and it helped us reflect on our experience there. First and foremost, Lima <em>felt</em> like Latin America, and it reminded us that Buenos Aires really doesn't feel that way <em>at all</em>. From the architecture to the way of life, Buenos Aires is more like a slice of Europe that happens to be in South America. We also discovered that it's a few steps ahead in terms of anti-smoking laws in bars/restaurants and metered taxis (versus pre-trip price haggling), two things that Lima doesn't have. Here's a photo of someone paragliding (or is it hangliding?) off the cliffs in Miraflores, thanks to the ideal conditions. </p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5041514476004754258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8W6me3VfcRnygT619TS2i4yyxNs2TAHSWF8piFQ2wOREXzXuwOZOCh9sthHAH-onRlJmMF38rVv6lVGVUGPzk-q5-DshRlJ-6hLupxicQwkEJmPZlP154Z8yth2eTVIEWpxTebTmT_90/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+090.jpg" border="0" /><br /><p></p>What Lima does have is an enviable, temperate climate (between 70 and 80 degrees year-round, which means A/C is not needed) and a truly unique cuisine that I think might even be more interesting than native Argentine cuisine. (Yes, I said it. More on that in a minute.) And while there's a lot of nondescript modern construction in Lima, there is some beautiful colonial architecture to be found, especially downtown and in the Barranca neighborhood. Here's one building I particularly loved for its colorful paint job.<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5041502707794363202" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBfyOgTBq2hjk6MrTssC63vYRQCgWAKlTooiQV-dAQZt_XPwjO_XLhRYpldh55B3kQe-eg1Cti9cRrhmKQKkuTHDkDJZ4blBRwq0XSsvU6z7kdUYyo9dp4AlOgGElccndjIs4z4MBei0o/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+103.jpg" border="0" /><br />Next is a shot of Matt with Matt Gehrke and his girlfriend Giuliana in <em>El Centro</em>, Lima's historic downtown. To give you a quick backgrounder, Matt Gehrke moved to Lima eight months ago to become the regional director for a NGO that promotes transparency in finance. Giuliana, who is from Lima, is currently earning her PhD in architecture/urban planning. They were fantastic hosts and took a lot of time to show us Lima's sights and cuisine, including <em>anticucho</em>, or kebabs made with the heart muscle of the cow, and <em>saltado</em>, a stir fried dish using soy sauce that reflects the Japanese influence on the cuisine. I really liked both dishes, as well as the numerous spices and fruits that are found only in Peru. At a top-notch seafood restaurant called <em>Segundo Muelle</em> (<a href="http://www.segundomuelle.com">www.segundomuelle.com</a>), we had some spectacular desserts made of fruits I'd never heard of and also tried a strawberry-<em>dulce de leche</em> custard that knocked my socks off.<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5041500792238949154" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYmC2fqYMBf7XrSq1SpzXTxX0DDx0V6uQv0HVe2xYSd2B3Q0naD1aUUkPFGrrEAiIZKDXu81WaeHaMIIOpVanzkR-LZ2h2Q6ZUtYtsmcMdqFuvFAXoX3LvhCKgIb09tJpHzdFxsW9dldU/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+093.jpg" border="0" /><br />During our stopover in Peru, we also spent two nights in San Bartolo, a sleepy beach town about 40 minutes south of Lima that's known for its surf breaks. (In fact, there was as surf tournamount going on when we were there.) Here's a shot of the great view from our cliffside hotel, which I must add had the most eccentric and cluttered decor I've ever seen, as if we'd stepped into crazy Uncle Sal's beach cottage from the 60s. But who cares about that when you can hear the waves crashing, enjoy the sea breeze and watch local surfers at two different breaks all day long? I should mention that Sofia Mulanovich (<a href="http://www.sofiamulanovich.com">www.sofiamulanovich.com</a>), the 2004 Women's World Surfing Champ, hails from Peru. Matt actually thinks he spotted her in the water while surfing one morning.<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5041500779354047234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHVaCKO8gNYWnzZXxo-m7ybvg6WOjXAecjZdcg5C_BbVOjugeu5bG1mEuXcVY-MMvxPzkx2bZSM1Anlbi4v5nflO8Uxy2by0D4OFFTy6h3RUv7ziuyycw79OLTHE1Huji6RU-V6Y8LCBM/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+068.jpg" border="0" /><br />In the last picture, taken on our balcony, you'll see the hotel's chatty Italian owner trying to convince Matt to buy property in San Bartolo with him. He urged, "Let's make business!" We declined, which disappointed him. "The town needs people like you," he lamented, before quickly launching into another story. So with that final anecdote, this brings the Buenos Aires adventure, and the blog, to a close...for now. A big thank you to everyone who read and commented on the blog over the past months. We'll let you know when there's a new adventure to follow!<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5041500770764112626" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj3TUaDlpYYao5U8CC-mNbrvwuNpKPoShiW4LXffGhneeEOqITomtFWuGgrK1r_Xw4pES8zWYa1GlcYBcfPqBV9DfYTA_8Ij_XPZlcJ6XOgnaY2u9arPmRcWFE5hl9_x1_nSaW9UKaYFc/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+066.jpg" border="0" />Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-12882928611871324102007-02-26T06:47:00.000-08:002007-02-26T06:48:16.849-08:00Saying Adios to Buenos Aires - Part IIOur favorite things about Buenos Aires:<br /><br />1) The 3-to-1 exchange rate. I can’t emphasize this enough. You can reduce your LA monthly overhead (rent, transportation, food, etc.) by 50% or more here – and yet still live higher on the cosmopolitan hog than you could EVER afford to back home. <br /><br />2) A truly “green” city. By this I don’t mean an environmental model, alas, but a city where you see green things everywhere. Trees. Parks. Flower boxes. This is a beautiful urban city because it values greenery – the opposite of a concrete jungle.<br /><br />3) Eating slowly and socially. In Buenos Aires, we’ve had to redefine the eating experience. People here relish a leisurely, talkative meal. Less devouring, more delighting. The result? You eat less…and enjoy it more. <br /><br />4) The foodie restaurant scene. Yes, the steakhouses are great. But you can only eat so much beef. Fortunately, there’s gourmet Vietnamese, French, Scandinavian – you name it. Lots of places with spectacular food that actually lives up to the hip decor. Also, they use really interesting ingredients like dried flowers. Sounds weird…but tastes great.<br /><br />5) The people. Not only are they artsy, intellectual and often bilingual, Argentines are incredibly friendly to boot. People went out of their way to befriend us and invite us to do things. Our new friend Maria Jose even threw us a farewell party last night!<br /><br />6) The ease of getting around. You don’t need a car. The subway is great. The walking is pleasant, thanks to the abundant shade from huge trees. And if you’re in a rush or going a long way, cabs are cheap (less than $3 usually) and plentiful. <br /><br />7) Fresh mint cocktails. I don’t know if the mint they grow in Argentina is fresher or what, but it is the most intensely flavored mint I’ve ever tasted. Added to a cocktail, it’s unbelievably refreshing. Forget mojitos. These are REAL mint drinks. <br /><br />8) Delivery. You can literally get ANYTHING delivered to you in Buenos Aires. I don’t just mean food either. You can get a DVD delivered – and picked up! A bottle of wine. A prescription. A book. No minimum order, either. A single espresso? Fine.<br /><br />9) The postres (desserts). You can find more varieties of desserts here than you could eat in a lifetime. When restaurants close between 4 p.m. and 8 p.m. (between lunch and dinner), there’s always a confiteria (pastry shop) on or around the block to get you through it. Plus, at around 13 cents, they may break your waistline, but not your budget. <br /><br />10) The culture. People value the arts. (Apparently there are more plays in production for children here than anywhere else in the world.) They value music, design, etc. The city government even sponsors a huge program of free concerts, tango shows and cultural activities every weekend (Fri-Sat-Sun) through the summer. <br /><br />11) The emphasis on tidiness. Thanks to a new initiative, the government has placed trash cans on every street corner. You never have to look for a place to throw away something. Also, the grass in public spaces is weedwacked almost every day. I challenge anyone to find grass that’s more than two inches!<br /><br />In sum, is this a livable city? Ab-so-lute-ly.Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-86011646451646472062007-02-24T11:08:00.000-08:002007-02-25T09:03:13.719-08:00Saying Adios to Buenos Aires - Part ISadly, this marks our penultimate post from Buenos Aires. Can you <em>believe </em>how fast the two months have gone? We certainly can't.<br /><br />On Monday, we move out of our apartment into a hotel. Tuesday, we fly to Peru for a four-night layover in Lima and the nearby beach town of San Bartolo, where Matt will get to do some surfing. Finally, come Sunday morning (March 4th), we’re curbside at good old LAX.<br /><br />I thought it fitting to conclude our blog with a “Best of Buenos Aires” round-up. Part one is a smattering of photos that show off the city’s endless charm and appeal. Part two is a list of all our favorite things about Buenos Aires.<br /><br />Part one is below. Enjoy!<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5035184649409907970" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUzniYeSCT3gCQYhudG01uYJPqc-aIvEGjUkDcnk9x8vik6zUNSttVLSGw6B15a-rqk0V24LVYbsAeM14wjOe7vuDxvxY_fzXrZIJVHOo1eazVBv_anGWORtNoc2eXKuUU-YYrW15JjQA/s320/Buenos+Aires+013.jpg" border="0" /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5035184662294809890" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGRlK5T0eAf_cq4fFjWlnwKkXc-5kSqMC7nFvYuaWIVOOS_20x1AZOhZijeNT-SFMdO5lxhilQIJ7LOdw1BxhgezZDukbuVaGFDsYMO6mZGTOpDh6n3tPMa6gtNb_QmVQ8kfqFrWjji74/s320/Buenos+Aires+062.jpg" border="0" /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5035184653704875282" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMOXQ1ADxws5tbmhBSnqpoDLcXXFkEo47wROn-hgc_FN39DcPGw9xQLKrglU-T3W3pyS_BSvR1Y8vVjGf22BEYI6htzj3omTjYE7EVBPBc5J6JqfMWVwR4CZGKrxEiUky3-jISs8Gi1go/s320/Buenos+Aires+054.jpg" border="0" /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5035197465592319410" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiH3TYRPus2vBmg_AlIm-91pgNGtkxHHtN5VLDq3aFOwh7DY70Lf-8qPoh5pFsmLVg_XIQqCREG36HCH1GqfiWuFz8kZ40jfr-HDZy1bBdqgy6iTC_7zzGczfN4HwkJzJkVFhz61pqj6qo/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+061.jpg" border="0" /> <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5035184675179711794" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixr9Yi0WPgeuPwI6OWynI2lybuB7hB9zVusWhl2KnbP4XQsR8i2tX-sUX4AKD-TWxIk9g8Dc_yfghzzlwSMc4PdJtRAIBosLetslLg5bNsBc0FCWSzx4hLTFrk5iJq8SqKsYgQfQFSUIc/s320/Buenos+Aires+064.jpg" border="0" /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5035197457002384802" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRepFrLBMqyxhzzBdVMAXfeQHh1jb61t8Gd0lvOI9Wp41MMpkne0zF_0t8VllNOwHYKoshb78rTweP1oJCzZ609YD38-EmO3lN_b2If86E24x-B-rPx043X02EA-Q-xhGghS1kTEIzKO8/s320/Buenos+Aires+098.jpg" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5035194523539721570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5uVmz_16qsfopxnM-jAkQlbghJfP6AVVlX4qpJ_WBB1HTU-VPDw9Scnhpk9mtVYaP5c44jmAKA12pDB_uc912kjanafMBmFYdZMUcgCvn23MOgAaLofJJfr1iam7VbLzFQU_vC_mQzKY/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2006+010.jpg" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5035184683769646402" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBVkC1nUJ3E0zvOC_s9xeVZ9uqMMiddKRArHAiLcIjmiK8fqCOvhM8yTLO_vVkpa5dlcE9XoeeHsusc5_IAJ45tKA3rWZOHM9VoVWDI8q9Y3612ANdxiq-3HxOf6O8f2x_bHaLfxWvZPU/s320/Buenos+Aires+093.jpg" border="0" />Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-63562383075774994242007-02-23T08:48:00.000-08:002007-02-24T07:53:54.581-08:00La Ultima Rey de EscociaSince the Oscars are on Sunday, I've had movies on my mind - thus the theme of today's post.<br /><br />Last Saturday night, Matt and I went to see The Last King of Scotland, or <em>La Ultima Rey de Escocia</em>. (Forrest Whitaker's performance is spellbinding, if you haven't seen it.) The film was in English with Spanish subtitles, which was perfect for me. I could understand it AND learn a few <em>palabras de Espanol</em> (words of Spanish) at the same time. Here's a photo of people waiting in line to buy tickets at the Recoleta Village Multiplex, which has 14 screens.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5034780505872256162" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeKqxRJ6O5MrfeKD-gSyVECsf8DVE9R_Cx279fFDz7yjTCNRR0Cuji1VLFIYKmeeBolUmGGsqvqfPkg2CqhJx_NGjOdTaemBuV0APrDo1wBJbr2WnigTWu4QjtVOFiou0lZPNhkEXLyig/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+039.jpg" border="0" /><br />We discovered a couple of interesting things about moviegoing here.<br /><br />1) Seats are assigned at the time you buy your tickets. They show you a chart and inform you what's still available - then you make your selection. We really liked this because it allows you to go early and then return to the theater just as the movie starts without having to worry about being stuck in the front row. It's kind of like the ArcLight in LA, except you pick the seats.<br /><br />2) Many movie titles just don't translate, and very few are the exact same as they would be in the US. (An example of the rare non-translated movie title is Borat.) But others, such as A Prairie Home Companion for example, are too idiomatic to translate. So they rename them, sometimes with amusing results. A Prairie Home Companion becomes <em>Noches Magicas de Radio (</em>Magic Nights on the Radio<em>)</em>...and Flushed Away becomes <em>Lo Que El Agua Se Llevo (</em>which I think means something like What The Water Carried Away<em>)</em>. Feel free to correct me anyone!<br /><br />3) Unlike Nicaragua, movies arrive in Argentina not too long after their US debuts - around one to two months later on average. For example, here's a sampling of what's currently playing in town: Dreamgirls, Blood Diamond, Apocalypto, Babel, Charlotte's Web, A Night at the Museum, Letters from Iwo Jima, The Holiday, and Perfume. I would say only about 10% of the movies showing are non-American films made in Latin America. Clearly, Hollywood dominates.<br /><br />4) Most Hollywood films are shown in English with Spanish subtitles. Thus, it's easy for non-Spanish speakers to go to the movies here. The only problem is when a film or parts of a film are in a language other than English. An example would be Apocalypto, which is in a native language. Thus I wouldn't be able to see it here in Argentina because the subtitles would be in Spanish, not English. We also decided against seeing Babel here as parts of it are in Japanese apparently.Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-50432573427171233642007-02-22T07:00:00.000-08:002007-02-22T08:41:57.339-08:00An Ode to Dulce de LecheIn a conversation at wine club last night, a woman who works at the US Embassy affirmed our feelings about peanut butter being the food Americans miss most when abroad. But the funny thing was our friend Maria Jose's puzzled yet ardent response: "But we have <em>dulce de leche </em>here!" And she's not alone in her sentiment. Argentines truly feel <em>dulce de leche</em> is better than any other spreadable sweet treat in the world, and they might be right.<br />.<br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5034387761177807986" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-ctuzfuO9qYnzJx2n0YAYra_mP7VF5x1WjEidU0ckREiEfnVrAgBYUWX2LitqDICFpgtn5jttPmwe79k28qFvx0fm_Z25obyLxly-UE5KdSJghdXJ4siIgoxfVoSFN-Mk9kz64BLY7uE/s320/Buenos+Aires+090.jpg" border="0" /><br /></p>Beyond beef, there is nothing more predominant in Argentine cuisine that <em>dulce de leche</em>. You can find it oozing hot in an empanada. You can find it stuffed in <em>facturas</em> (croissant-like pastries). You can find it in <em>alfajores</em>, or Spanish-style cookies with two sweet biscuits joined by a layer of <em>dulce de leche</em> in the middle. You can find it tucked in <em>masas </em>(bite-sized desserts.) You can find it as ice cream, both as a base flavor or as an accent or ribbon in other flavors. (Not surprisingly, it is the most popular flavor of ice cream here.) You can even find it in chewy tablet form. There is artesan <em>dulce de leche</em>. Organic <em>dulce de leche</em>. You name it - it exists.<br /><br />Everything in this entire case of <em>masas </em>below has <em>dulce de leche</em> in it some way or another. In fact, there are whole sections of <em>confiterias</em> (pastry shops) devoted to things with <em>dulce de leche</em>. In the world of desserts here, it's sort of like the haves (having <em>dulce de leche</em>) and the have-nots (not having <em>dulce de leche</em>)!<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5034387769767742594" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYZUgfdc8qpeBRFcY8Jk_GPADrK_1cs6RLm9pU_8h2UhRsNLRltYbehfTxpJXsf5frgfi9gpTkuGYWmHyUCCL7Kr0zuRBfl66Ld9s-oMJfdu8N37-lRjfCqr03pBVv9kIDysfMWgftG8c/s320/Buenos+Aires+075.jpg" border="0" /><br />So what exactly is <em>dulce de leche</em>? It's looks and tastes like caramel in many ways but with one important difference. Caramel is made by boiling sugar and water. <em>Dulce de leche</em> is made by boiling sugar and milk. As a result, it is thicker and creamier, sort of like a jam. It also has a distinctive, nearly-burnt-milk flavor. Compared to caramel, it's undoubtably the richer, more indulgent of the two. Although caramel is certainly popular in the States, it's not something that Americans eat every day. For Argentines, <em>dulce de leche</em> is.<br /><br />Below is a photo of one of the most famous Argentine brands of <em>alfajores</em> made with <em>dulce de leche. </em>We are bringing them to Peru as a present for Matt Gehrke, the friend we're staying with in Lima during our brief pit stop on the way back to LA. (He requested them after a visit to Buenos Aires convinced him of their greatness.) Sorry for the bad photography by the way - I couldn't figure out how to turn the flash off!<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5034392043260202130" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVGuRKbn8oBdplzHp7ZqTZ_9fuLs90f4GRbLlLSmJ0Jxt7IV97JiVMtfPfb47zsxtaH82Xi9aAHtmFlB_mrjZVADxn6BDlLsO2HhKjiL2mN9MraYk9lYszzOu7O2L_JR2XtYdeGgIp8CM/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+050.jpg" border="0" /><br />A final tidbit. There are different legends about how <em>dulce de leche</em> came to be. Most involve some famous person's cook inadvertently leaving milk and sugar on the stove for too long. One story has it originating in Argentina. Another in France. Who knows for sure, but it's wildly popular in all of South America, so I might vote for the Argentina birthplace story.<br /><br />In contrast, <em>dulce de leche</em> didn't become widely known in the US until Haagen-Dazs introduced it as an ice cream flavor in 1998. But if you've ever had the Haagan-Dazs, let me just say it's nothing in comparison to the <em>dulce de leche</em> ice cream at Argentina's two best ice cream chains, Freddo (<a href="http://www.freddo.com.ar">www.freddo.com.ar</a> ) and Persicco (<a href="http://www.persicco.com">www.persicco.com</a>). And best of all...they deliver!Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-161330012399007992007-02-18T06:45:00.000-08:002007-02-18T14:58:20.159-08:00High Tea at the Alvear Palace<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs6OWFfIod3SwvZwXdK7srzo1i3fMthun2od8-kWo6Av50IxkiiDtv4lOwK5xovMajtakfspkbnMfF3UZrnqw-56yYlHYTTVeUD5xuHJl2Rl8OFVNax1xT-yPJ8EY9Yd4YHqL2fxm5Adk/s1600-h/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+021.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5033003351484386402" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs6OWFfIod3SwvZwXdK7srzo1i3fMthun2od8-kWo6Av50IxkiiDtv4lOwK5xovMajtakfspkbnMfF3UZrnqw-56yYlHYTTVeUD5xuHJl2Rl8OFVNax1xT-yPJ8EY9Yd4YHqL2fxm5Adk/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+021.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>On Saturday, we went for high tea at Buenos Aires' most elegant European-styled hotel, the modestly named Alvear Palace. Served in the solarium of the hotel's L'Orangerie Restaurant, tea service is from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Even better, it is served by white gloved attendants. Clearly, this was too much pomp and circumstance to miss.<br /><br /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5032993589023722562" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJawO0cQLz3g5CMnSKApocA1TC1ovpRNWNRpr7wUrDWKGT6hBj_SxS9GV1N8OG5jXgCHHp7bKHhh419pGvkLZoACFp0cS5gzCgDfAZ6QRFlK-7rrbJioUPCgIQ1VCl8brckrg4sP6Ecdg/s320/Buenos+Aires+122.jpg" border="0" /><br />You can read all about the high tea service as well as the hotel, built in 1932, here: <a href="http://www.alvearpalace.com/v2/tealvear.php">http://www.alvearpalace.com/v2/tealvear.php</a>.<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5032990767230209026" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguWYRKa0qo0dkBL1waNH4A_sjh7nFXoMvuhnMKCMSQb9YqdxvRNxvmPtiDP8uaLebeO9dwOfDg3MkA1ev6EOBL0N5WS23S-QspPkimXkFMK5DAPJK5GZQYGIhMpfkMgwp7PXw-yz62a1g/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+019.jpg" border="0" /><br />The meal began with, of course, tea, served with crisp formality out of silver pots with silver strainers placed over the cup to catch any loose pieces. I had Chai. Matt had the Breakfast Blend. He dropped a large cube of sugar in his. I opted for a little milk. I will say that it was <em>very</em> good tea.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5032990780115110930" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE367QJJJyisUESXMRbjtv5cqSq1j801oK7-AOA_7WeEzyPAx3R2TursqA75zE2UxSygnWbyS2UKQGMFzhYCiIeIDNaMklltu3Yy8fpYQ17fqsx5z_q8CcXtpLcu-6lh1Dtty-UATiOEk/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+030.jpg" border="0" /><br />Then came the finger sandwiches (cucumber and cream cheese, etc). Then the scones. Then a new pot of tea. Then the three-tiered patisserie tray (salty items below, sweet items on top). And finally, much later, a slice of cake of your choice at the end.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5032990784410078242" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv4ejeUjloBcg_qmWpGvAMRtRxoUdA0InEgepI9946lIk6qKw_naZUSyB3MjEiGmMtrQuP2cLFIdOQft71oN3H2310i9aQvzRM5zSKDWZ_mFfx9n22HV7LFOKa86HOTVj2k1jBY_-_efY/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+031.jpg" border="0" /><br /><p>As a piano tinkled away in the distance, we observed the following type of people attending high tea: some wealthy, well-groomed Argentines in suits and some American tourists wearing jeans and sneakers. We also overheard an American couple who sat down quite a while after us tell their waiter, "We're pressed for time. Can we get the check?" Why they would come to a two- to three-hour high tea in a rush is perplexing, to say the least. But it sparked the following thought about our cultural differences. Argentines eat leisurely, a little at a time. Americans tend to inhale their food. Argentines are not fat. Americans are. It gets you thinking, doesn't it? </p>Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-9766186977771951072007-02-17T09:04:00.000-08:002007-02-17T19:59:39.137-08:00Bidets: What Are They Good For?This morning I was reading a magazine called <em>THE WEEK</em> that Calley included in our care package. It's a weekly round-up of the best news stories and columns from all around the world. On page 20, I had to laugh out loud. Here's why.<br /><div></div><br /><div>In a story about David Beckham's upcoming move to LA, excerpted from the <em>Chicago Sun-Times</em>, writer Neil Steinberg argues that Beckham won't have any impact on popularizing soccer in America. That's because he claims soccer is "the bidet of American sport." Why? Because it's "a puzzling contrivance, very big in Europe, that Americans simply don't like the look of." </div><div></div><br /><div>Frankly, I have to agree with my country's state of bafflement over the bidet. We've had bidets in both of our apartments, as well as the hotel we stayed in over New Year's. Given how cramped bathrooms can be here, we've lamented how much precious space these strange appliances take up. So you'll enjoy Matt's eventual conclusion of how best to use the bidet - as toiletry storage! :)</div><div>.</div><div></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5032555661273320434" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTEjVUATxYa19DVhN1AS2Q4LERPCd1TWSUJsBYkzTEsPFpV6Q3MpCvu2c1c60RwcuqaGAFusBuDqDuJFeKxQfcImVCRfbMIukfOZ_r43Qm5GDrr34Fcddaj2sh3d7qyDVYzWmYp3LDIy4/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2006+044.jpg" border="0" /><br /><div></div><div>Here are a few other tidbits we've learned. Apparently the ubiquitousness of the bidet in Argentina is a direct result of the Italian influence on the culture. Bidets are very common in Italy, unlike Spain. We've also learned that many people use them for washing their feet in addition to other parts. Apparently there is a setting for foot washing where the water only comes out around the rim instead of shooting like a geyser. Who knew? </div><br /><div></div>Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com44tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-16416186926074671912007-02-16T08:23:00.000-08:002007-02-16T08:29:15.792-08:00And Our Favorite Blog Reader Is....<div>Calley Prezzano!</div><div></div><br /><div>Look what we received in a care package sent all the way from San Francisco yesterday. Peanut butter - smooth AND crunchy! We had mentioned our withdrawal for this very American food in a past post, and lo and behold, it showed up at our doorstep.</div><br /><div></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5032169466403998690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyjTLOGdNHP2XM1t42z1-KHOXdafTh5F85C3oANI6-ko-UdFq4WAXAeoA1IPZJb5Nyb65WdrwA2XSXFwj2bgXxvEcGD2D_GQb9SJpNMT1cquKFBegvn5YabjR-R6e4JddgD4DTujNpG7I/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+010.jpg" border="0" /><br /><div>Muchissimo gracias, Calley! You made our day. I would write more but I'm busy spreading more peanut butter on a cracker. </div><div> </div>Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-8563940499034282102007-02-15T08:53:00.000-08:002007-02-15T12:46:11.078-08:00Stopping to Smell the RosesOn Valentine's Day, Matt and I took a long lunch and went to the <em>Rosedal</em>, a massive, immaculately landscaped rose garden located within <em>Bosques de Palermo</em>. (See my last post if you don't know what that is.) It's about a five-minute, $1.50 cab ride from our apartment.<br /><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7pb3pgTms8aMVFBg0Fteg9TWFUYU9_TBMcHjvNckyTeV1YdRhUyg2n6g57VHPnuqY1lPfDYZxwndKDO7Prx1nc-wW13Gx4OF8YCfGOZuQ2EZSUblUbX7DOikuk9tslxn5IWO7n44L2O8/s1600-h/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+047.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031810604706548626" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7pb3pgTms8aMVFBg0Fteg9TWFUYU9_TBMcHjvNckyTeV1YdRhUyg2n6g57VHPnuqY1lPfDYZxwndKDO7Prx1nc-wW13Gx4OF8YCfGOZuQ2EZSUblUbX7DOikuk9tslxn5IWO7n44L2O8/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+047.jpg" border="0" /></a></p><p></p><p>The garden is surrounded by a meandering moat replete with ducks and swans (and even a few islands), and you have to cross one of two picturesque bridges to enter. At first sight, it's almost like a fantasy landscape. We took the experience in on foot while others rented rowboats and paddleboats to take it in by water.</p><p></p><p></p><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031811691333274562" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiECOXtoU9YQKkvbay30A0e0CzrVQ4AiqlVuSX1hFGSMWWy-XDT93eW9cCiDYqHgx5JFxFz18Sp6js1pS4KFn3z4TiRLscmj8YvQ_LsEtLO3DM-xSBtVYX8UrcyhKIY2INEVW_dXhs1kSs/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+048.jpg" border="0" /></div><br /><div></div><div>Although many of the roses were past their peak (now that it's mid-summer), the garden was still incredibly beautiful and serene, with all sorts of shaded nooks for escaping the midday sun. People were picnicking near the groves of trees, and the breeze coming off the water and the various fountains made it quite pleasant.</div><div></div><div>.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031810621886417842" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTGTd2dBpwjoAElKml3aTBy14Gvx5fHB7LwnkL_rrHazA52JDYtY0sH0SO8f46cbjMWQc-H016Dn-2i3FeV45wvYm_urQ20BZGJzM8hbhQRw1GZqGR7Sb9fGoVWKyPR1_Je5veyFhH-fM/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+035.jpg" border="0" /></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Here's the lovely, vine-covered promenade that hugs the moat and is one of the best ways to navigate the <em>Rosedal</em>. There was hardly a speck of trash anywhere, as you can see, and thanks to our mid-week timing, there wasn't a crowd to maneuver around. </div><div></div><div>.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031810613296483234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9lB3VQGzkWeAZVxkc-6WxepngC-nBVJp-Znj5ZfnsWp4BS1VkaCnc5YdkGOu4Q1n4QXEOEzQaDaA-Qtx1TH62hLf76M1-smZpZw66DVzjNRUhTZ3MnI1uiTt3xz9wOOKV61TGuUSLLcA/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+034.jpg" border="0" /></div><br /><div></div>With tidy paths, freshly cut grass, good signage, abundant trash cans and nice restrooms, the <em>Rosedal</em> (free to the public) is a testimony to the city's emphasis on taking care of its parks. We were extremely impressed and could hardly believe we'd taken this long to check it out. In fact, as of this writing, I might rank it as my favorite spot in Buenos Aires.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5031811695628241874" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaSfF2wDHpSYokrogCJbB1cxrcWUUCWpI6t3AbX192dsnhf5AnvnvxjiwapWM0SbG9KXPUMm1ZYgenfOFh3KlbpUAv46VJc8Ymqm3og63URKv2P2cqiA9OHIoeX5pwq39RgWQPQIp_ttM/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2007+052.jpg" border="0" /><br /><p></p>Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-43551099798927654292007-02-12T15:33:00.000-08:002007-02-12T16:25:57.081-08:00Palermo: Why We Love It - Part IITHE PARKS<br /><div>We have yet to mention Palermo's huge, 64-acre network of interconnected parks, collectively termed <em>Bosques del Palermo</em> (Palermo Forests.) With several lakes, biking paths and countless different gardens (the Zoological Garden, Japanese Garden, Botanical Garden, Rose Garden, etc.), it is to Buenos Aires what Central Park is to New York City. Except that Central Park doesn't have mysterious hidden statues....or bike rentals for as low as $1/hour.</div><div></div><br /><div></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5030801016809048898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVMnvrmZFfH162fwf_vKl70fKlGnT-uccBfmf1TQ44Wkl-s-paTHgdWhNodZlr1-vgyqo8hXrUyMckorGFZUsFOIx5dD0xCJ0MhRstjqJWkIBc1XYsdgfE033BPVeNhVougMX8wlR8RR8/s320/Buenos+Aires+056.jpg" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5030801012514081586" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRg6Lik_HRCCi_HhT8VD3ZEnHObe2JAkpWrgto6XJSzoc-DpZPN-6GENxKkjdLNj1Dq-yjNTDVVtNWoGzWfnw60PefIPICCegG7J3wWCOEcR1qh63kU1vHBPhMnIkYQANCNIvWUtJiLeg/s320/Buenos+Aires+004.jpg" border="0" /><br /><div>THE TREE-LINED STREETS</div><div>Continuing on the green theme, one of the most instantly noticeable things about Palermo is that, unlike the rest of the city, almost all of the streets (some of which are still cobblestone) are lined with huge old trees that provide cool shade on even the hottest days. You can tell that the city has worked very hard to preserve the trees (and thus the charm) in this area, despite all the new construction. </div><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5030803877257268082" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiXzTDqS4PRfgzS52aGp1xN11MNByIPsBCmmlVM1lRw5v0Mq5vEG0vDgpTwzk2-8CCiXiLGI-1LMca7GRlj-F5SHU1nXxxB_P3RvMNZvB_VD8rcId8bFtbYS2MotKRFjwqS9LSRV47ab0/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2006+039.jpg" border="0" /><br /><div></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5030803881552235394" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijCvaod8zCcw0qzmqJH1naTXfRfI218XCrrwJG3MV86lrvMOzr2IbmlC9NJSdiv2ZSvqWAdAGN3suqQ9Z2UZEo5M5BX9SrgkKxx52NiyQKDzosW-kXIt5ncz0mNJLO17nIJJiXUhjdI34/s320/Buenos+Aires+063.jpg" border="0" /><br /><div>THE MULTI-PURPOSE SPACES</div><div>In Palermo, a restaurant is not just a restaurant. It is often a number of things: a lounge, a cafe, a bookstore, a performance space, an art gallery, a club (at night), a music shop. Since eating is not something to rush through here, you are provided with lots of things to do while you take your sweet time. Here are two examples. First photo: Eterna Cadencia, a bohemian bookstore-restaurant. Second photo: Central, a industrial-styled restaurant-reading hangout. </div><br /><div></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5030802472802962274" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtt4_OR_T77bp5zDaSXL2mf3FSOOmNOduhRJ0K633-UoZyqjtAVIpEhNDk77OIAnbm05awqeapUStfo-2m0nzLdQPcitLbcxhcqZUahzEmsjlEVtfK0ke2I3whqTAuqpzqbrFXKuRsG7A/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2006+026.jpg" border="0" /></div><br /><div></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5030802468507994962" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Hu7ONPimJGiraQ0xpW4PJvsjSPuLjUfntfpQQoSXry9c9uxOXPnIjjyH5M7kTV6O5y88dKt6HVN3W0zoOKMarqCwpBCerM3YxhThYgdFvTx_NCG80F0PQOmq50L9c8uz5Nt3skt7hVQ/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2006+002.jpg" border="0" /><br /><br /><div></div>Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-75319937225775905812007-02-11T13:46:00.000-08:002007-02-11T14:58:47.765-08:00Let Them Eat BeefOur <em>asado</em> (BBQ) last night was so much fun that we forgot to take pictures while it was happening. But here's a shot of the leftovers. Yes, this is how much we had left AFTER feeding eight people, if you can believe it. The redder meat is the <em>bife</em> (beef) while the whiter meat at the front right is the <em>cerdo </em>(pork). Most Argentines like to cook their meats very slowly until very well done, but we just couldn't come around to that perspective. We like our beef more medium (Amy) to rare (Matt).<br /><br /><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5030401176828627730" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_F1G_vhkRc1y_-AMHSP9U8ZhjiJJg7I0hLvhEUtb17f5icXzntrqBItBBS3QaMGq0sZwi0gfKn4RI45rt-uKXdoICqcCC-svTenp4_YdLsEgAAUjlv2YNm5A7V4Rc-yEaovMOm8Obnbo/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2006+001.jpg" border="0" /><br />As you can see, <em>asados</em> are not light meals. It's all about consuming as much meat as you possibly can over a three to four hour period. We started with salami, then moved to sausage, then pork and then finally, the beef. (FYI, I put the kibosh on blood sausage and sweetbreads, which are also very typical offerings.) But because meat prices are regulated by the government and thus extremely cheap, an <em>asado</em> is not an expensive event. We paid around $20 for ALL of the meat. <em>Increible</em>, no?<br /><br />Here's our <em>parilla </em>(outdoor BBQ) the day after. You can see the ashes and also the long utensils you use. The typical way to do the fire here is with both charcoal and wood. (Supermarkets sell small pieces of wood specifically for this purpose.) A funny tidbit is that Argentines pride themselves on using just one match to light the parilla. More than one, and your reputation is sunk.<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5030401181123595042" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD5VbmdG5LV7SM4KaeRbBKgciWV70QXY3PLgURQVUramg4dtb3g-MLXTQmsFmQjlT-x9WYGQ0KEqx_CjtgSTChpMU-1bvg2DTwjeqSYZYL9imvnHKUYEpuk9sOBQ3doYJbJVzb5ybxDRU/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2006+006.jpg" border="0" /><br />Here's who attended our <em>asado</em>:<br /><br />--<strong>Ines and Santiago,</strong> our BFFs from Casa Coupage, who coached us through the whole process and even went with us to the grocery store to buy the meat. We couldn't have done it without their help.<br /><br />--<strong>Charlie and Veronica</strong>, a very nice English-speaking couple. Charlie, who is from Texas, works for an American-owned engineering firm here in BA. He and Matt met in the Peace Corps in Nicaragua. Veronica, who is from Sao Paulo, Brazil, works for an ad agency here.<br /><br />--<strong>Jeff</strong>, a freelance writer/editor from Los Angeles, who we were put in touch with by a friend of Matt's and who joined us on New Year's Eve. He is here for six months, and like me, he telecommutes for his US clients.<br /><br />--<strong>Ronnie</strong>, the older Argentine fellow who is starting an olive oil exportation business in Patagonia and who befriended us at Casa Coupage. We sit at the same wine-tasting table with him and Maria Jose every Wednesday. </p><p>Sadly, <strong>Maria Jose</strong> couldn't attend as she's on holiday in Pinamar, a beach town about four hours south of the city.</p>Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-90517524600412655822007-02-11T13:07:00.000-08:002007-02-11T14:30:35.138-08:00The Future of Branding?As promised, we returned to the restaurant located in the Mini Cooper dealership to investigate this peculiar marketing trend further. We ordered two <em>licuados </em>(fresh fruit shakes), one peach and one banana, and took in the scene.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5030390250431826658" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUBByXTvl7h-LDSMRFW1qeD27xr6koxgXj7sgWYjYfkSLN4THlSqq8t6bBd7FgG9CkR3xPywapnoI5Q64EuJyqgEJrkuGRvjAJyCXJtMyEqouQ6QhoHAFlUbgeHCQZ2tgPG6jJWORIk48/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2006+014.jpg" border="0" /><br />A couple of observations. Do you have to be interested in buying a car to eat there? No. Do you have to own a car to eat there? No. Do you have to steel your subconscious mind from the overwhelming number of marketing messages while you eat there? Yes.<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5030390254726793970" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHi4Qzw7RHyuEz1cgtjcAuMDj3BK4X-RqzE5kBhjrLBluV7b0SwQ4nupQJBm2JwWjPIHRBfg_Bs_Vz79P73ZxnTgK8JnAkApGuBt1LELViG1vZ27wjnmsu-3cEmW-ePI0PTOqva65U2MY/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2006+013.jpg" border="0" /><br />You see, the restaurant - apparently a destination for the style-conscious person with disposable income, the kind who COULD afford to own a car that's not a Fiat - turned out to be a tangled web of cross-promotion. From the American Express tablewear to the Hugo Boss menu covers to the Delta Airlines frosted signs on the windows, we were bombarded by international branding.<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5030390263316728578" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWzzZREuU-DUfAo-oXZZvBdhocRCN8mttePe4inRmLvYB7TifnMMNRlHCH1RoaUGtDc8WeeR14TC70JV4LeSTvYeh5ibwtS3uJSitw91pDKabxYWHIFx31ZyY4mdKnmF7GHX9LpXLXO28/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2006+012.jpg" border="0" /><br />And how did we feel about all this? Extremely odd...and then slightly cool...and then slightly uncomfortable for feeling slightly cool. In the end, at least the drinks were refreshing.Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-74503261978115046472007-02-09T11:27:00.000-08:002007-02-09T12:24:20.375-08:00Learning to Pronounce "Araoz"Why is this important to pronounce correctly? Because it's the name of the street where our new apartment is located, and getting home in a taxi requires that the driver actually understand what street name you're saying. For the first few days, I was prouncing it "ar-AY-os" and getting perplexed or blank looks from the cabbies. But now that I correctly pronounce it "ah-ROUSE," I instead enjoy an instant nod of recognition from the driver as the cab speeds off (following no particular lane lines, of course).<br /><br />Now, about the new apartment itself, which feels more like a condo due to its bi-level layout (meaning, it has two floors).<br /><div></div><div></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5029625375870171714" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNVrwQuymanYiqfqzjx_XsMWnqczw-MEDpq8Om0gxniAEuiBxWaiwBcir85MiSLZExnC8EfLU9PiGUnQdnGoUM0LYdoytn8z87Zx2B2YdOE5a02wNSMTGNkekUUB0XK57KJPDFx4uNFJg/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2006+052.jpg" border="0" /> First, let's start with the positives, some of which will be demonstrated by the photos.</div><br /><div></div><div></div><div>--Two bathrooms (one upstairs, one downstairs)</div><div>--Two balconies (one upstairs, one downstairs)</div><div>--Top floor of building</div><div>--Full entertainment center with TV/DVD/stereo</div><div>--Brick parilla (BBQ) on lower balcony</div><div>--Pool in the building</div><div>--Quieter, tree-lined street</div><div>--Open kitchen with glass counters (unusual as most are galley style)</div><div>--Large walk-in closet (unusual in BA)</div><div>--Sandwich press (we are enamored with this appliance!)</div><div>--Two blocks from the gym</div><div>--Closer to the happening areas of Palermo</div><br /><div><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5029626131784415842" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHZdMFW_RDFBlGBmLaYIqP9Wqvr2L3ePV501mcmFVnv-TGGC04fdc0m-wtpnFQkTsWJ8Y8NL-LtLYb5_1N4YokMDvhGHe6AdXM8vBIUwyYwurfzc87WylX46LfPbN-WsrTaMzvZFikxSE/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2006+045.jpg" border="0" /> </div><br /><div>And the negatives:</div><div></div><br /><div>--More limited views</div><div>--Dingy carpet on the upper floor</div><div>--Some faulty electrical outlets</div><div>--No confiteria (pastry shop) downstairs or even on the block! (Okay, maybe this is a positive.)</div><br /><br /><div></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5029625380165139026" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY0qbIaFNFvtxc_QxPoCm_ZAmK4dJ75RpbnkUWr44ELeD9oLlAVT4Wu29oUyMQtqj1SlFtnRZSyo-DhXrxroBe7c7yaqnAw_RdMAPfqLyzfw3z51cNXr9Jobx8f4CkRIV-Zd9LGgWHSwo/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2006+048.jpg" border="0" /><br />(The stairs, just FYI, are right behind the cut-out shelf with the coffemaker and paper towel holder. One other cool feature to note is the row of glass tiles that let in light right over the stove and kitchen sink.)<br /><div></div><br /><div>So as you can see, there are many more advantages than disadvantages, and we have lots of new amenities. We are having people over on Saturday for a barbeque to take advantage of the parilla, for instance. Plus, it is definitely the more functional of the two apartments in terms of telecommuting. I can be working upstairs while Matt is watching the news downstairs (that or his favorite new channel, La Rural, which is all about life in the Argentine countryside), and I can't hear the television at all. </div><br /><div></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5029631049521969778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxVHofxl-DCmp3MoUb7vmdkMj2TsAEsRqznGLKeVlafWkQm1wyt9yDcq21k8wmn6apSWkDgoksjBHqr3YK52UAWoeLs1ZBljc6GSl2HZWXLsI4ord_SCTf8jzfssQN_g3byNxWJUy8Di4/s320/Buenos+Aires+-+February+2006+057.jpg" border="0" /><br /><div></div><div></div><div>p.s. Photos of the surprisingly idyllic, shaded pool coming soon - as soon as the weather improves! (It's been rainy and overcast this week.) </div>Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-83884447642442309522007-02-08T16:16:00.000-08:002007-02-08T16:26:24.003-08:00Palermo: Why We Love It<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZrvKoLj9vde6vGQ7PiAhTSQUG1gq0IttetYqTwMUECkVr2vMUkrj_IO0AsZ6_UD_M3tEf9cOkSzyQ53QgMp4Xp1DqZ5jXJ1R7gfegutuZW_XTS8ID9fzn3atCge9COhgDGggjusc8j-iy/s1600-h/Downtown+B.A.%3B+January+28+033.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5029323450360235218" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZrvKoLj9vde6vGQ7PiAhTSQUG1gq0IttetYqTwMUECkVr2vMUkrj_IO0AsZ6_UD_M3tEf9cOkSzyQ53QgMp4Xp1DqZ5jXJ1R7gfegutuZW_XTS8ID9fzn3atCge9COhgDGggjusc8j-iy/s320/Downtown+B.A.%3B+January+28+033.jpg" border="0" /></a> Restaurants abound in Palermo. The lunch special is a real deal with a starter, main course, dessert and drink for $10.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHAree457yihWy-LSoXvB6SDm1jGpmcOjZstLsVU10tr0zqI5MZIBDDxGNhztw7lnq3pXjp4vG8uVAQejgMKDYpS8dtjTxyNl8UPB7iciE3787kP54YjaYR8jcj6g_sVOppDrGxJcM2ELZ/s1600-h/Downtown+B.A.%3B+January+28+033.jpg"></a><div><br /><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkYPOthybv17-5BLlQ6SN27SZmu1JFyYAW2jpe80hmWSDebQVRNn_TkaR18HoaPKD0IkicalDjcG8TKDhITcHHTesmIDf12C_T7OnpIPNdO3bZEsY0UJ4TmS3EQAM4jfonJmSzfY9qumzR/s1600-h/Downtown+B.A.%3B+January+28+021.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5029322703035925682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkYPOthybv17-5BLlQ6SN27SZmu1JFyYAW2jpe80hmWSDebQVRNn_TkaR18HoaPKD0IkicalDjcG8TKDhITcHHTesmIDf12C_T7OnpIPNdO3bZEsY0UJ4TmS3EQAM4jfonJmSzfY9qumzR/s320/Downtown+B.A.%3B+January+28+021.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><br />There is a fountain of creativity in Palermo, and artistic expressions are visible all around the neighborhood.<br /><div></div>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16646227765513055592noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-65508142486090220382007-02-07T07:56:00.000-08:002007-02-07T08:23:20.982-08:00Another Historic Home To Drool OverWe got to check out Maria Jose's home last weekend. (You may recall that she's our new friend from wine club, the one who works as the regional marketing manager for Disney on Ice.) Built in 1922, it's another renovated stunner thanks to its high ceilings, exposed brick, original tile floors, beautiful wooden doors/windows, rooftop terrace and colorful stained glass.<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5028827748924113554" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdOMfkUxAZry7LMp_G73Zy25DCOLt_j7XfT4Wrr4gGCrJ80Duau-BuwC0huC7eJsqqi1KpNfA1f5CqYshZsfdyPGjdOE0j5QFJNya8GnvzCazvCZJoMFuRn6hEB7Ch_mKNkh_COp5w7gY/s320/Buenos+Aires+249.jpg" border="0" /><br /><br />Luckily, Maria Jose pulled out all of her savings in early 2001 to buy the place - right before the economic crisis. So unlike other Argentines who saw their dollar-based savings accounts sliced to a third of their original value overnight, her money was safely invested in real estate. Today a renovated historic home like hers is highly sought-out by home buyers, so she's in good shape for a very profitable resale.<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5028827753219080866" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYzxnAR_lREwkb82HJV60qe3Zg4mxNsAcuBYoa1IYsn27O9KP-XuCoppnUYQ-GlibQAl4IlM_CokzwyBBv-OngJQRzzhb2-qxe9mRMM5Lmdnuryji-Sh5A5pqbc3CqedyEWypcv5lV3ZU/s320/Buenos+Aires+248.jpg" border="0" /><br />Here's another interesting tidbit about Maria Jose. I believe I mentioned that she speaks English fluently. I should add that she speaks English without a hint of an accent and has the most impressive bilingual command of English/Spanish of anyone we've met. Thus it wasn't surprising to learn that she worked as a translator for visiting celebrities for many years. What <em>was</em> surprising was finding out her favorite American clients: Charlie Sheen and George Hamilton. She says they were by far the nicest, funniest and most down-to-earth of all the people she worked with. She also developed a great bond with Deepak Chopra, who she still translates for as a personal favor whenever he comes to Argentina.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5028827761809015474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWrVDp2I2M9JHu3PNvaDU8jXw4LyoW0uDdfe_etVXmaXa5D4dI6QYbiD49pYUlOSPPQ-Nmqv6048oX-EbbzDg9pyedZzCBB0ij5sERlU6K5wC-94KccxrGyePPWr0zzrIIfRbv9p03uEk/s320/Buenos+Aires+250.jpg" border="0" />Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-1585212185846549692007-02-06T16:39:00.000-08:002007-02-06T17:23:00.374-08:00Top Three Hazards of BA1. The Drip<br /><br />New Yorkers will probably relate best to this one. You're walking along, minding your own business and suddenly....PLOP. The condensation from an air conditioner has landed right on top of your head, and it's now running down your scalp. While technically not harmful or life-threatening, "the drip" can be quite startling and annoying, especially if you're dressed nicely. Here in Buenos Aires, "the drip" is exceedingly common because central air does not exist. Like most of Latin America, most apartments and homes are air conditioned by window or "split" units because the costs are much, much lower (both in terms of construction as well as the monthly power bill). Thus, Matt and I now have a new rule for navigating the sidewalks. Look ahead for puddles, and when you see one, walk around it. Chances are it's a "drip zone."<br /><br />2. The Poop<br /><br />Now, I just discussed one rule for navigating the city by foot. Here's another important one. Don't just look ahead for puddles. Look down also to make sure you're not about to step on dog crap. Yes, dog crap. I don't know the figures, but let's just say that there are a LOT of pooches in Buenos Aires. Apparently the dog walking profession was born here to meet the needs of busy dog-owning urbanites who were gone all day. Just head out on any weekday, and you'll be guaranteed to see a dog walker with a least 15 dogs, somehow managing to get them all to happily trot along in sync. How do they handle their brood's needs? Legally, every dog owner and dog walker is required to scoop the poop, but clearly this is a law that many Argentines are disobeying. Or perhaps the dog walker only has so many hands and scoop bags. I don't know, but suffice to say, we watch our step these days, and life smells much better. (To be fair, the problem isn't nearly as bad in nicer neighborhoods.)<br /><br />3. The "C" Knob<br /><br />In the US, there are two knobs in your shower: hot (H) or cold (C). But in Latin America, the words for hot and cold are "caliente" and "frio." Are you guessing the hazard yet? Let me describe the scenario. Your alarm goes off in the morning, and you're still rather out of it. Your brain isn't awake yet. To rectify that, you step inside the shower, and turn on the water. Suddenly, it gets really, really hot. Scalding hot. In panic, you crank that "C" knob for all its worth to turn the temperature down. But it's only getting hotter! What the heck is going on? That's when you realize you're turning up the hot...instead of the cold. Because "C" here means "caliente," not cold. No matter how many times I do this, it's almost like the "C" on the knob is inexorably programmed to mean cold in my subconscious. It's almost Pavlovian. Need cold? Turn the "C." So as you can see, of all three hazards, this one is definitely the most dangerous. Luckily, I don't have any third degree burns...yet.Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-74141924981473517382007-01-29T07:23:00.000-08:002007-01-29T09:11:12.437-08:00Smells Like Leather...No, Pine!On Wednesday, Matt and I attended a blind white wine tasting event at Casa Coupage. Here's the very attractive wine tasting salon where it took place. (I took the photo after all eight attendees left.)<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5025482619958022178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2r4UHoHhqbKNZrccXG7FfhlgUHccwD5Bdk1hXbwaqbgmsrmLFuo7YewRkbsWb00rsM45Zmw2MSpy8A4mSgbD3GgBQ5VWEx61ftPX7gs1U2lj0QOUEdxA7zmQ2l-smsC9JI3Nq3pYKL60/s320/Buenos+Aires+240.jpg" border="0" /><br /><div></div><br /><div>The evening started with a sniffing test. We were passed small vials of scented liquid and asked to identify the smells. The aroma was often very familiar, but it was amazing how hard it was to put your finger on it. People had completely polarized ideas, too. One person would say it smells like rubber. Another would says it smells like cat urine. (Seriously.) Sadly, out of six vials, I only got one correct, and it was naranja (orange), arguably the easiest. The exercise, Santiago and Ines explained, was to help us train our nose. Clearly Matt and I need a lot of help in this area!</div><br /><div></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5025489320107004002" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKTv6jEzkafIk78vrhRt5DO2m2rigWxueRjzrbixGgaC0oCBFkYHoONGuAFdlI6I58qv7Ou9D8jXDxs-MY2nKPy7afBLjYT5tSkiHAXWyM7nvmB8h8NSzDCn8FWn-KuhcZ9i0GuuZ9Of4/s320/Buenos+Aires+241.jpg" border="0" /><br /><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>Next was the blind tasting of three white wines, meaning you taste them without seeing the bottle. We learned how to evaluate them based on smell, appearance and taste. What was really neat is they have special wooden tables with a built-in light strip in the center. You hold your wine over the light for a better examination of its properties. Then, after finally taking a sip, you rank the wine using a handy chart and try to identify the grape. I got the first two correct (Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc) but was thrown off by the third, a Viognier that was not nearly as sweet as I'm used to. All three wines were Argentine and sell for around 30 pesos.</div><br /><div></div><br />Here's a photo of their custom-built, temperature-controlled wine cabinet, which is really rather high-tech but is made to look like antique furniture so that it blends in with the 1920s house.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5025484054477099090" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNJ_pL9z7pUHXYu21EXeoSUJcoTAhiKMghlJlQ-g4c3XbDy8qN3ZrE9DG_0Ms_AAP87nBu-qVsw1oVTp-PVJ0HNtdk54mKFROfLCMxoXNWH27A6n7QSuPOUG9p08hwxSu2yGLB2Bfdx94/s320/Buenos+Aires+244.jpg" border="0" /><br /><br /><div>The last part of the evening was the pairing menu. Casa Coupage works with a terrific chef who designs a gourmet meal to complement the selected wines. Our meal included grilled polenta with goat cheese, mango salad, trout ravioli and an apple tarte. Que rico! With each dish, we noted the wine that paired best with it. This, for me, was really the "a-ha" moment. Once you taste the food and then go back to the wine, you may have an entirely different impression. The wine I liked the least upon my initial tasting (the Sauvignon Blanc) was suddenly my clear favorite with the trout ravioli, for example. </div><br /><br /><div></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5025482611368087570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFGv3Iz36wGIOrOwg3I3MdRBFFcTBK-MHD1apBb17zWdm_qdCPySjrWPLgfVIyjWR7fh0snttJo5F7clSfnnaSzC0xSZ6qlKABXzYwYn24I5RGE23IXRtwXlgwuEMuLEkii7whzIZ9tnM/s320/Buenos+Aires+239.jpg" border="0" /><br />And as if the evening wasn't thrilling enough, we made instant friends with the two very fascinating and well-traveled people at our tasting table: Ronnie, who is starting an olive oil exportation business in Patagonia, and Maria Jose, who is the regional marketing manager for Disney on Ice. They've both lived all over the world (the US, Spain, Germany, Mexico, etc.) and lucky for me, they both speak fluent English. Here's a photo of Maria Jose speaking to Ines in the foyer. You'll be hearing more about her and Ronnie. He invited all of us to dinner at the nearly hundred-year-old Club Nautico San Isidro, a famous boat club located in the river delta.<br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5025482624252989490" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbcvEnV6dLwV9JVmoEdpYoJ5tkZyEKZNYbfjghIN9v99-YhVR0VqYRWCtbr9lncCCh_Io26pGMA-cWeGBqLKDPc-SDRRffGzazcRR3uN6wAFt1EQrPdfBpZk9RKSp6xvKFcfj_Ry5m0yY/s320/Buenos+Aires+243.jpg" border="0" /></div>Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-31055410246758921312007-01-28T15:17:00.000-08:002007-01-29T10:39:09.332-08:00What Things Cost in BA – Part IISomeone asked me, so what’s NOT cheap in Buenos Aires? There’s got to be something, right?<br /><br />The answer is yes, there are a few things we’ve noticed that are no cheaper here (meaning, they’re about the same cost as in the States) or are actually more expensive than they would be in the US. Some of these items are easily explained, such as Heinz ketchup and foreign brands of salad dressing, which are both imported. Others are more curious. Why soda would not be cheaper here, for example, mystifies us. A 1.5 liter Coke costs $1.00 USD, when you can get a 2 liter in the States for the same price. And for small, 500-liter, portable sizes, a soda is actually more expensive than an equivalent-sized beer!<br /><br /><strong>Roughly the same cost as in the US:<br /></strong><br />Heinz ketchup (no other brand will do!)<br />Paper products (paper towels, toilet paper, etc.)<br />Olive oil<br />Plastic patio furniture<br /><br /><strong>More expensive than in the US:</strong><br /><br />Coke/Pepsi<br />Salad dressing (all are imported brands)<br />Wireless routers<br />Calls from land lines to cell phones (extra charge for calling cells)<br /><br />Finally, as a random sidebar, there is one favorite imported food item that so far we have been unable to find in Argentina. Strangely, this is something we were able to buy in Nicaragua (albeit at an exorbitant cost). Any guesses? Here’s a hint. They grow the main ingredient for it in the South, and it is often paired with jelly. Yes, we are having slight withdrawal for peanut butter!Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-58184929613182484712007-01-26T06:35:00.000-08:002007-01-30T09:52:16.735-08:00I See Dead People - Part IIAs a follow-up to Matt's post about the Recoleta Cemetery, I thought I'd share a few photos of different mauseleums to show the vast range of styles. These are shots I was able to capture when the SilverSeas cruise ship group didn't get in my way. :) Yes, while the cemetery is truly breathtaking - you feel like you've stepped into the 1800s - there is the unavoidable tourist aspect of it. Anyone who travels to Buenos Aires feels obligated to visit, and on weekends, it can be mobbed with people trying to view Evita's grave.<br /><div></div><br /><div>This first grave is that of an Italian family who arrived during the large wave of Italian immigration. Senor Roverano is literally "getting off the boat" to start his new life in Argentina.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5024356625561898994" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSxK9Ex1F-VEZIQBGG1fTCaTdYTnVIaSVVl22abgTiOB-fZx_UEGXanHZ9hcV38AFlEn5f5OK-Kk5yy-CS1P6Uj1G-R0UueFBTNwJlAuLGFMYtQ1HgzoZP07PbGjIrpW3c4xWKClN-Wws/s320/Buenos+Aires+173.jpg" border="0" /><br /><div></div><div>This second grave was built by a poet/artist type. He felt his family's remains should be stored in a more natural setting, and indeed, it's quite a contrast to the gold-gilded tombs all around it.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5024356621266931682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEj_Yci2czugrcRhrZs3mocHP_cLbylvA3nTRfawtiebQ5mvGTLVtsxsBlxM1oC_hhL-0fVrwYA6XMYkajkqDwOMPHAxiof9Dm80mkgUVQiwQoulHMTK1WLl5kafWIBSFDX0IUIs5H3M/s320/Buenos+Aires+147.jpg" border="0" /><br />This one has more Arab influences - and a feline friend sleeping on it. A sizeable segment of the population hails from the Middle East. In fact, the last president, Carlos Menem, has a Syrian background. (Incidentally, Menem's son is now dating the pop singer Shakira. There's your one People-magazine fact.) </div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5024356608382029778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh2gSo4gfG_-KIgdqXSG7uCtydkMmMH9J4VAbATXP4n9_tQss4ZiBTk-DtFT395atQcCaJf7xNxrDNWOuhmp-GDLjXosrIQeVrBRudT3Nc0iJ4Siz9Z9c1jYiysT4MDt9B5kFgkRd2EQs/s320/Buenos+Aires+120.jpg" border="0" /> <div></div><br /><div>Finally, here is Evita's grave, located in her family's tomb ("Familia Duarte"). Stylistically, it's fairly sedate, but there are usually fresh flowers placed on it daily by her loyal supporters. Interestingly enough, her husband, three-time president Juan Peron, didn't make the cut for the Recoleta Cemetery. He is buried elsewhere. One other piece of trivia is that her family had to place a steel plate and a series of trap doors in the mauseleum to prevent the theft of Evita's body, which had once "disappeared" for 16 years until it was located in Milan. Apparently the tomb is now strong enough to withstand a nuclear attack!</div><div></div><br /><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5024356634151833602" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_b2El1gHgAnUXEk1tSV2lXGI3KV6yf9GeTzujSM03rxspsXRkKTkbbKyqNBNShFrwmoeUMIoJbZZimVtR4KWuzyGUgwwfnJKpppIgo5C4WLOmLmZiRrWna_8tT5_quFDGvuMAhL1xJes/s320/Buenos+Aires+176.jpg" border="0" /></div>Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-63374506377962759882007-01-25T20:15:00.000-08:002007-01-26T06:31:05.036-08:00Would You Like Some Fries With Your Mini?When we first walked by, I did a double take. "Was that a Mini parked inside that restaurant?" I asked. We backed up a few steps and looked again. Yes, in fact, there <em>was </em>a shiny Mini Cooper hanging out right inside a restaurant on upscale Avenida Libertador, just inches away from nice, civilized people who appeared to be having a nice, civilized lunch. There were two Minis in fact!<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5024194232848437170" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOQqWcuuvlpVW6HNkTblrisadVxA-TgLZQaKZeNEtnFLIDVqe9RFSFXJAyTSd8O2um6Sbg_MpH33LpDSPKZkRBf-dmb2WCS6OsydhlSGhkYsTm-Nm7ve_h4fYhqVFexR02qFV_2bwpL4I/s320/Buenos+Aires+095.jpg" border="0" /><br />As we peered through the floor-to-ceiling windows and took in the scene, it became clear that we had assumed wrong. There wasn't a Mini in the restaurant, you see, but the other way around. There was a restaurant <em>in a Mini dealership</em>! What's even more surprising is that this is actually not a novel concept in Buenos Aires. A few days later, we passed another hip cafe located inside a Renault dealership.<br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5024194237143404482" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD1zMSeOMTb1W-oq-eoghsKpEttng2_ylFykeiLC6x7Dov9PGlpIOxfdqM9j-t2IJfkLWFe7-oOtO41CVP-Rwnz6DhgXg1gpUaUjqJsSMngg0_s0DYPgI6y1F1rp8nRsY1FdHTB7joK_I/s320/Buenos+Aires+097.jpg" border="0" /><br />As for why and how this eat-with-your-new-car trend has flourished, we don't know. Certainly a car dealership is the last place we ever thought to look for an espresso and a croissant. But we'll be getting to the bottom of the mystery soon. My first question is: do you have to pretend to be interested in buying a car to eat at the restaurant? Or, if not, do they simply hope you will become enamored with the car by spending quality time in its presence?Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-3162618614399452402007-01-24T04:58:00.000-08:002007-01-24T10:22:10.459-08:00Cemetery de la Recoleta<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPZoF2r9hUpVkZutLnx3uRViChEY9-iBloI9SplRgahTML657JMtxeQb70GjBr0fZeQJwJRDzHI0opRu34Gs_PUqedKvBf8Kn6fc74CyfANe5W7dZsM5F1EaxDjQVbe06x-S5R7yAtEJfm/s1600-h/Recolleta+028.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5023658962383358690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPZoF2r9hUpVkZutLnx3uRViChEY9-iBloI9SplRgahTML657JMtxeQb70GjBr0fZeQJwJRDzHI0opRu34Gs_PUqedKvBf8Kn6fc74CyfANe5W7dZsM5F1EaxDjQVbe06x-S5R7yAtEJfm/s320/Recolleta+028.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div><div>The ritzy part of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" onclick="BLOG_clickHandler(this)">Buenos</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" onclick="BLOG_clickHandler(this)">Aires</span> known as <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" onclick="BLOG_clickHandler(this)">Recoleta</span> takes its name from a Franciscan convent but is best known for the must-see <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" onclick="BLOG_clickHandler(this)">Cementerio</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" onclick="BLOG_clickHandler(this)">de</span> la <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" onclick="BLOG_clickHandler(this)">Recoleta</span>. The Cemetery includes graves of some of the most influential and important persons of Argentina, including several presidents, scientists and wealthy characters. Internationally, Eva Peron (Evita) is one of the best known persons <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">buried</span> in the cemetery. On Tuesday, Amy and I enjoyed a guided English language tour through the cemetery. </div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5023658369677871810" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe-LQEv4n96nz6mIOvuYaiTBJjO34q6PujUEMfVTe6ELBOf-Xypa95e2NGU4yhrWtgMh4fN34ZAvdpWhIqxF1CwK9Nwxh-m9NF8bKgypdjc9kPBUR8A4BXy0zD-NTc4hCXylhdvzEXX_ml/s320/Recolleta+Cementary+046.jpg" border="0" /><br />The entrance to the cemetery is through <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" onclick="BLOG_clickHandler(this)">neo</span>-classical gates with tall Greek columns. The cemetery contains many elaborate marble mausoleums, decorated with statues, in a wide variety of architectural styles. Most of the mausoleums hold between 22 & 24 caskets; though some mausoleums hold even more! The entire labyrinth-like cemetery is laid out in sections like city blocks, with wide tree-lined main walkways branching into sidewalks filled with mausoleums. </div><div></div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5023658365382904498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLBNTns3DB4iXh4qy-HTg0Ge3UHCb6VIx4fO4FrTqdmdATq0vRASIlbComvkchgZ4RxkF4-WcnG2evwUh1KtIdOSuAW0yiRGdJiuLpVfsSeXMZWhldu8v9y1gQV3aN_gR8PDWFz7sVwYTh/s320/Recolleta+Cementary+006.jpg" border="0" /><br />One interesting and unique aspect of La <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" onclick="BLOG_clickHandler(this)">Recoleta</span> Cemetery is a colony of feral cats that resides within the gates. Although they can be spotted anytime, they tend to gather in groups of dozens near closing-time, when some of the locals come to feed them.</div>Matthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16646227765513055592noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-46006183615989266512007-01-16T14:17:00.000-08:002007-01-17T07:15:17.027-08:00What Things Cost in BAWe've been keeping tabs on what things cost, mostly because it continues to amaze us.<br /><br />Here's a sampling....<br /><br />Bottle of wine: $1.50 USD and up<br />Movie ticket: $4.00 USD ($2.50 Mon-Tues-Weds)<br />Men's haircut: $2.00 USD and up<br />Liter of milk: $0.75 USD<br />One pastry: $0.13 USD and up<br />Individual yogurt: $0.40 USD<br />Wedge of gruyere cheese: $1.67 USD<br />Cab ride (~15 minutes): $3.00 USD<br />Baguette of fresh bread: $0.33 USD<br />Dozen large empanadas: $5.00 USD<br />New release DVD rental: $1.83 USD<br />Large pizza and a soda: $3.33 USD<br />Subway ride (one way): $0.23 USD<br />3-course upscale lunch special: $5.00 USD<br />Cafe breakfast (coffee/pastries): $2.00 USD<br />Women's manicure <em>and</em> pedicure: $13.00 USD<br />1-bedroom apartment (to buy): $50,000 USD and up<br /><br />As you can see, Argentina is "muy burrata" (very cheap) for Americans because of the extremely favorable exchange rate (1 dollar equals 3 pesos). It's even <em>more</em> of a steal for Europeans, as 1 euro equals 4 pesos.Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-56264024421158678592007-01-12T08:57:00.000-08:002007-01-12T10:07:20.378-08:00How To Feed A Foodie for $10So you may be wondering, what kind of snacks did we serve Ines and Santiago during their visit? Did with pass the test...or come off looking like Velveeta-cheese-eating Americans? Since we knew we'd have to raise the white flag on the wine selection, food was now our only chance to redeem ourselves. But we needed help - that much was clear. So we set off to consult with the two very friendly proprietors of Salumeria Cuneo, the neighborhood meat and cheese deli located right around the corner from our building. (All told, the trip to their store took about one minute, and most of that involved waiting for the elevator). They were delighted to help and full of suggestions. In the end, we walked away with the following items.<br /><br />A small wheel of Camembert cheese, which is similar to Brie in texture. (Cost 12 pesos, or $4 USD).<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5019196875190783858" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCgEfF-cWrMBorm_uadlat6TPkZ8gLVG50z0yx8jDqdTyhYFj54vqGtaIznMovjWooRy9li9jIHcjO5Y-0r9mtGagPk1YivkoTQFEa4voCIeT7VxCkJz37bKMybjSe-3ks_6uQRXMmdCk/s320/Buenos+Aires+081.jpg" border="0" /><br /><br />A 12-inch roll of "Fuet de Tandil" salami, which is about the size of a quarter in diameter. (Cost 8 pesos, or $2.60 USD).<br /><br /><p></p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5019197905982934914" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoDGZMDXAzk_BFuWVqiNF33AcB8fvWu2TtIuiWC_aRD0yF8A7oZDTY0aWmcqrjufJreVjMKhscTWw1s3MM94K1YfQXCigzWSQHXsBsmFxlU9gb9jwh3Qcuv-pEGGRUlTAU0hhjY1ahPDo/s320/Buenos+Aires+078.jpg" border="0" /></p><p>A package of "linguini," which in Argentina refers not to pasta but to thin slices of crispy bread, and an accompanying spicy cream cheese to dip it in. (Cost for both, 2 pesos, or $0.66 USD). They even loaned us a small dish for serving the cream cheese under the condition that we return it the next day along with a report on how the evening went. (The verdict: "Fantastico!")<br /></p><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5019199164408352658" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbsaYaFDS3C1me4SyrotV-LJagud6OZjmyGL3vO2JYJVE4l1X0rGUV5t8SyXImLXL_XL6Zbjgn19iP2VroUqWUW4E2GXxB1qgsTwFBambJsIYvyUvDxX17RzOJU4tAWXZZuijSCW-NaCg/s320/Buenos+Aires+079.jpg" border="0" />And of course, we had to then swing by Dos Escudos, the "confiteria," or bakery, for some sweets. The following (from left to right) are just a few of the mini-desserts or "masas" you can pick up on every city block: flan, dulce de leche creme pastry, lemon merengue tart and tiramisu. (Cost for 8 pieces is 8 pesos, or $2.66 USD).<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5019200680531808162" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9AtcgOaQSthFoaOV1Fv9b540wCloK2PVHAan4gD-XGaP3GLH5fNNdiIZ4mDaRkbUnQ0kJeaNekOvOp55yDLUQ-mvcJqMJyE06c3FesW8aAkjOqWvtFHpeUWaDcGVzUCPyn8QyPpLsJDA/s320/Buenos+Aires+077.jpg" border="0" /><br /><p></p><p>So what did we learn? As Matt commented afterwards, stores that focus on just one thing no longer exist in the States unless they're very high end. But here, the owner-operated small shop (whether it's bread or meat or produce) lives on, and it's awfully nice when you need an expert opinion. It also presents an entirely different way to buy and prepare your food. Instead of stocking up for the next two weeks at the supermarket, most Argentines (like Europeans) grab whatever they need to make dinner on their way home, often making several stops. That way everything is fresh and preservative-free. </p><p>Indeed, a few days ago I sent the proprietors of Salumeria Cuneo into a state of shock and horror when I asked for a half kilo of sliced "jamon cocido" (baked ham) for sandwiches. "Quantos personnes?" they demanded. "Dos," I said. Both of their heads started shaking. Although I didn't understand every word of the lecture, the message was clear. Why would I buy so much at once instead of coming back tomorrow for more? Didn't I want to eat fresh? Was I insane? I had to admit - they had a point!</p>Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1267152596946446014.post-5329997833534185682007-01-10T11:29:00.000-08:002007-01-11T12:19:49.317-08:00Our Friends The SommeliersAt the wedding, we were lucky enough to reconnect with Ines and Santiago, a pair of true Argentine epicureans. They are both sommeliers, and they both love food. Matt first met them when they ran a restaurant in Granada, Nicaragua, for a few years. Below is a photo of (left to right) Matt, Ines and Santiago at the wedding.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5018493853468938066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-aVFcFxRYUETCieZZSpf9fwMiY9up-cZvAjePa3FOy9nYydiYbFJk4BJzBfJmo3RX5B4U_ucnRiCsPrRASTzp75k-nQYGQaBRcJd1wrJXhnl41t2UMIejGXq2zzRRmsMoHCYDiB6KvTI/s320/Buenos+Aires+012.jpg" border="0" /><br />Ines and Santiago now live in a gorgeous 1920s home in the Palermo Viejo neighborhood of Buenos Aires and host private wine tasting events (often with meals designed to complement the selected labels) in their customized wine salon. We stopped by and checked out the place recently, and it would be an understatement to say that we're in awe. We're talking 20-foot ceilings, beautiful original tile, marble staircase, wood and iron French doors, a central atrium filled with plants, etc. The memory card in the camera ran out before I could really capture the place, but here is a shot of Ines in the atrium.<br /><br /><p></p><br /><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5018496104031801186" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5HrHAuXPIsj4qRR3JpJdmH6sXU6rzOy6EiH8JCU3qIbpl9k-RdpWy8QCHzTGc_Emz9S8mQHdyBFsLI2HSDGKrRbPuxhXTj88xCUdVlMHRgEj8ckEPSEp75wDwLtzlzvvjtXon5GjJWvE/s320/Buenos+Aires+028.jpg" border="0" /></p><p>Thanks to the explosion of wine production in Argentina, Ines and Santiago have found themselves in the right place at the right time. As Santiago explained to us, a 30-peso bottle of wine in Argentina is the equivalent of a $30 bottle of wine in the States in quality, but thanks to the exchange rate, it costs an American only $10 to purchase. Needless to say, we plan to hang out with Ines and Santiago as much as possible because they are fonts of information and some of the most interesting people you could ever meet. They also speak English fluently. We're having them over tonight for drinks on the balcony, but of course, we've given up hope of offering a wine that could impress them.<br /><br />Visit <a href="http://www.casacoupage.com.ar">http://www.casacoupage.com.ar</a> for more photos of their home and wine salon - you'll find them within the section entitled "La Casa."</p>Amyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02680149442602568757noreply@blogger.com0